巴西萨尔瓦多达巴伊亚的葡萄牙人如何和何处学习

Article and photos by Lies Ouwerkerk
Senior Contributing Editor

萨尔瓦多佩洛林尼奥区。

在我的旅行期间与当地人及其文化建立联系，一直以外语为我。当然，在我接触过几种外语的欧洲，这有助于它。然而，葡萄牙从来都不是其中之一。因此，当我最近在巴西进行了一次广泛的旅行时，我决​​定从旅行的头几周开始全面沉浸体验，在一所语言学校上葡萄牙语，并在巴西家庭的寄宿家庭中加上葡萄牙语。

选择一个场地并保留本地资金

问题总是，如何选择合适的学校？在定义了我最重要的标准并研究了网络上的选择之后，我能够将搜索范围缩小到一些感兴趣的学校。一方面，我总是提出一种方法，尽可能地使用本地企业的服务，以此确保我的资金留在来访的国家，而不是去国际组织雇用当地人来获得一小部分利益。

萨尔瓦多达巴伊亚由于它是音乐之城，节日，即兴节日和具有强烈非洲影响力的传统而闻名。此外，萨尔瓦多旧殖民地区的照片，Pelourinho, declared World Heritage Site by Unesco in 1985, seemed very alluring. The fact that endless beaches, idyllic islands, hiking-friendly national parks, and scenic colonial towns were all within relatively easy reach of Salvador, definitely added weight too.

In the end, I zoomed in on language school白痴由于他们负担得起的学费，半天的课程，距离学校和海滩的步行距离之内的寄宿家庭以及从机场预先安排的接送服务。

The Language Program

At IDIOMA, located on a small residential street in Salvador’s巴拉district, it is possible to start classes on any given Monday, whether in small groups or 1-on-1, at any level of proficiency or special interest, and with a choice of two, four, or 6-hour sessions a day.

A quick evaluation by very welcoming staff members determined my place in a small beginners group of five, all having a good command of Spanish and thus sharing some advantages (reading) and disadvantages (pronunciation).

Conversational Portuguese, especially as related to situations with which we could easily identify, was definitely the mainstay of our program. But we also received grammar instructions, and listened to songs of杰出作曲家和声乐艺术家like Tom Jobim, Chico Buarque, Caetano Veloso, and Gilberto Gil. Soon we were able to read poetry and short articles on cultural and social aspects of Brazilian society, and to participate in role plays, games, and discussions. The ages of the participants varied from 20 to 70, and the difference in age and life experience made our discussions all the more lively.

巴希厨房

在习得瘤的当地食物烹饪课。

Idioma提供免费的活动，包括舞蹈课，潜水课，民间传说之夜和Bahian烹饪。事实证明，每周几个下午参加Nalva的烹饪班，这是学习如何准备（和吃）巴伊亚著名菜肴的绝佳机会moqueca de peixe，用必不可少的鱼炖的鱼dendê(palm) oil and coconut milk, and to get familiar with Brazilian kitchen lingo.

由于早餐被包括在寄宿家庭安排中，我迷人的女主人多洛雷斯（Dolores）与姐姐瓦尔德特（Valdete）一起住在一座高高的建筑物，高耸于巴拉海滩（Barra Beach），历史悠久的堡垒和大西洋，每天早晨准备好早餐，例如我最喜欢的早餐，torta de Banana（香蕉派）, bolo bahiano(coconut cake),和pao de queijo（奶酪面包）。

After our morning classes, we would usually have lunch with a small group of students in one of the typicalcomida a kilo（按重量的食物）学校周围的餐馆，我们将以5美元甚至更少的价格堆放沙拉，海鲜和水果。当然，我们还必须尝试Acarajé，Bahia’s well-known fast food, made of black-eyed peas, onions, and dried shrimp, and prepared by the贝亚纳斯在Avenida Oceanica沿线的看台上。

More than once, we had dinner in one of the cozy eateries in the vibrant but noisy and tourist-orientedPelourinho, where narrow cobble-stoned streets lined with shops, bars, and open restaurants, as well as monuments, pastel-hued mansions, and baroque churches are still testimonials of Portugal’s colonial glory days. Often, from our terrace seats, while sipping aCapirinha（巴西的“国家鸡尾酒”）,我们将目睹即兴街音乐会或Capoeira表演（一种非洲巴西人的武术形式，结合了自卫，杂技，舞蹈和音乐）。或者，我们会看到一群居民在附近游行，在tr上跳舞，在鼓舞人心的节奏中跳舞。

海滩上的Capoeira示范。

Festivals in Salvador, Brazil

实际上，萨尔瓦多似乎不断地与宗教，民间或受欢迎的节日“着火”，几乎总是在街头聚会中，有很多啤酒，音乐和舞蹈，直到深夜。尽管南半球的夏季可能在巴伊亚海岸很热，但它绝对是一年中访问萨尔瓦多的最佳时间，因为许多节日在1月，2月和3月举行。

首先，有processao do senhor bom耶稣dos navigantes(Procession of Our Lord of the seafarers) on January 1, when hundreds of vessels sail the picturesque All Saints Bay.

On every second Thursday of January, the day of theLavagem Do Bonfim，一个10公里（6英里）​​的游行队伍，穿着白色的人，有许多串珠项链，前往教堂Nosso Senhor Do Bonfim巴希妇女将在教堂的台阶上清空其芳香的水投手，由天主教神父和坎多姆布莱祭司负责。狂欢节小组Filhos de Ghandy进军贝亚纳斯以及带科隆的喷雾剂和飞溅的旁观者，祝你好运，而许多年轻的供应商试图出售Bonfim彩虹各种颜色的丝带。根据一个古老的传统，在手腕周围绑着这样的缎带会给佩戴者带来三个愿望，到缎带掉下来时，这将实现。但是，脱下缎带可能会引起坏消息。

2月2日，作为Yemanjá，海洋女神，装满花朵，香水瓶，蛋糕和笔记的船，要求女神寄予愿望，被推入普拉亚·里约·韦尔梅尔（Praia Rio Vermelho）的大海，将在海洋中进一步卸载。Yemanjá是约鲁巴人的精神，在大西洋奴隶贸易时期，他的宗教被从非洲带到巴西，然后融合到巴西仍然广泛实践的坎多布尔宗教，尤其是在巴海安Candomble houses.

Finally, Salvador’s carnival takes place in late February or early March, and is considered “world’s largest street party” by many insiders—even surpassing the one in Rio—because it spreads out over a large part of the city, and welcomes anyone to join in.Nota Bene:beware of pick-pocketing, especially at large gatherings, and only carry necessary change!

在萨尔瓦多附近

由于大多数习俗的课程都在早上，所以我可以离开萨尔瓦多以外的目的地为期3天的周末旅行，公共汽车从Rodovaria(bus station), some 10 km east of the city centre. Praia do Forte is a pretty resort town, just a 2-hour ride north of Salvador, with a 12 km (7 mile) long beach, plenty of nightlife, and a worthwhile sea turtle station. Land inwards, the colonial mining town of Lençois, a 6-hour drive from Salvador, and set in the magnificent nature of the Chapada Diamantina, is an ideal destination for hikers.

Morro de São Paulo and Boipeba to the south are lovely island retreats. Since you need to use a combination of bus and boat connections to reach them, and then proceed on foot, it takes longer to get to the final destination, so I tagged the islands onto the end of my stay in Salvador.

Moving On

With the basics of the Portuguese language I had learned at IDIOMA, the coaching by my host family on safety and Brazilian customs, and the day-to-day exposure to Brazil’s food, public transport, and currency, I felt comfortable enough to travel through the rest of the country on my own. Never would I have thought that in a few weeks time, I could master enough Portuguese to effortlessly buy bus, plane, and concert tickets, ask for hotel rooms, toilets, or general directions, negotiate taking pictures of locals, strike up random conversations, and partake in community activities, especially in Brazil’s interior and on the island, where not a lot of English is spoken.

接触

习语（http://www.portugueseinbrazil.com/_v2/site/）

费用

1-week group classes: about $200, depending upon length of stay and intensity; The homestay including breakfast at $24 per night. IDIOMA also facilitates stays in apartments,pousadas和酒店。请询问有关最新价格更新的报价。

Ouwerkerkis originally from The Netherlands, and currently resides in Montreal, Quebec. She works as a columnist for The Sherbrooke Record, and as a freelance writer and photographer for various travel magazines.