在印度尼西亚的约亚卡塔独奏旅行

Article and photos by Lies Ouwerkerk
Senior Contributing Editor
11/2014

印度尼西亚日益卡塔的宏伟的硼桥庙建筑群。

雄伟的野桥和普兰巴南神庙在招手，我一直渴望印尼人soto ayamfor a long time, and connoisseurs had convinced me that Yogyakarta was a true batikmecca. What more reasons did I need to include a short trip to Yogyakarta during my recent wanderings through South East Asia?

Away from the Hustle and Bustle of Downtown

On our way from the airport, the driver of the B&B where I had booked a room online, maneuvered his van adroitly through the chaos of pedestrians, cars, buses, bemos, tricycles, horse-drawn carts, bikes, and motorcycles. We finally turned into a small lane amid rice fields and stopped at a charming villa sporting the name "Alamanda": the absolute jackpot for solo travelers.

我的安静的房间里有一个阳台和室外淋浴，都可以俯瞰米饭，这是房子里最好的交易。包括美味的早餐，并在开花，舒适的露台上送达，可以根据要求准备午餐和晚餐。总是有带空调汽车的驾驶员可进行游览或市区访问（以最少的费用），而亲切的业主借给我一个蜂窝，带有B＆B的电话号码已经输入了它，所以我永远不会迷路。当我觉得陪伴时，总会有人在周围，当我宁愿做自己的事情时，没有人强加于人。

View on the rice paddies from the Alamanda B&B: Paradise for the solo traveler.

Alamanda B＆B的露台。

At the first signs of a cold, cough syrup and lemon tea with honey were already waiting for me on my night table. Did I perhaps want a massage ($6) in a nearby clinic? Was there any laundry to be done? Would I prefer dark bread instead of Asia’s much too sweet white? Did I feel like exploring Yogya’s nightlife in the company of one of the friendly English speaking staff members (predominantly university students earning their way through school), or would a cooking demo by co-owner Ritchie interest me? It could all be arranged in a heartbeat.

"Via Via Yogyakarta"

At "Via Via Travel," winner of the Wild Asia's 2013 Responsible Tourism Award for Most Inspiring Tour Operator, I arranged a worthwhile bike trip through sugar cane and rice fields away from the noise and pollution of the city. As we paddled along, the highly informative guide Yoana explained the ABCs of wet rice cultivation:

• 耕作和平整田地
• 十月在小苗圃床上种子
• Transplanting the seeds into the main paddies in November
• Harvesting rice plants a few months later
• Separating the grains from the plants

与Gerarda（另一个“ Via Via”指南）一起，我开始了一个最有趣的Jamu和按摩之旅。在贝克斯- 三轮循环的人力车，前面有乘客座椅，黑色的帆布罩在太阳上，以及火山，丛林动物和wayangpuppets painted on the sides—we rolled through Yogya’s alleyways, too cramped for cars, towards various traditional healing destinations: the exotic herbal lotion & potion section of the Beringharjo market where friendly vendors let us look, touch, and smell freely; a small neighborhood café (沃伦), using a secret family recipe for their medicinal home-madejamu- 一种用蜂蜜甜加甜的苦草饮料 - 以抵御疾病；以及仅使用盲人按摩师的按摩厅。我们用草药面包和舒缓的芙蓉茶在巡回演出中排名第一。

Abecak或三轮车。

如果时间允许，我肯定会参加“通过”报价的其他一些原始活动，尤其是因为他们的小组很小，甚至只有一个参与者就会发生。因此，不仅有关于旅行本身的问题，而且还有关于印度尼西亚，Java和Yogya的生活的足够空间。“ Via Via”活动包括烹饪旅行，宗教之旅，蜡染和银色课程，印度尼西亚语言课程，瑜伽和冥想课程，参观旅行的爪哇剧院，城市漫步在鲜为人知的Yogya社区，漂流，多天天陆上前往西爪哇省的陆上旅行，以及骑自行车的一日游，前往9世纪的Borobudur和Prambanan寺庙。

"Via Via" also operates a very affordable guesthouse and restaurant, sponsors cultural and educational projects in Java, and has its own travel agency where I booked tickets for temples, theatre performances and domestic flights (difficult to book from abroad, even on-line).

旅游景点

Even if you have a tendency to escape major tourist circuits, both the Sultan’s Palace and the Borobudur and Prambanan temples are a must-see if you want to understand more of Yogya’s culture and history.

印度尼西亚唯一的苏丹，现任日也卡尔塔州的州长仍然与他的家人住在克拉顿（Keraton），这是一个经过精心修复的1790年宫殿，此前这一地震地区的地震造成了广泛的破坏。每天早晨，宫殿和邻近博物馆的一部分向公众开放，参观可能包括免费的传统木偶和舞蹈表演。我参加的“ Wayang Orang”表演，以一种反映了古老的爪哇法院文化的风格，展示了Mahabharata和Ramanaya著名的史诗，并展示了传统的Gamelan乐团在后台演奏。

Dancer in Wayang Orang performance.

在Yogya的Kraton中，Wanang Orang舞蹈表演中的两个女人。

在Wayang Orang舞蹈表演中的女人。

与B＆B所有者Frans一起，我们一个晚上去了宫殿前的广场。深夜，这个地方变成了年轻人最喜欢的聚会点（年约会房屋至少九所公立和私立大学），在广场周围的许多街头小贩摊位上聊天，喝酒和吃饭，坐在大地毯上在人行道上。对他们来说，最终的乐趣似乎是旋转木马，带有小型三轮车车辆，上面装饰着彩虹的各种颜色的闪烁的圣诞灯。许多当地人告诉我，这种无辜的愉悦是您与朋友或约会时在Yogya所做的事情之一！

Although there are buses going to the Unesco World Heritage Sites of the Borobudur and Prambanan temples outside Yogya, I was told the trips could be rough. Therefore, I opted for a B&B driver instead and was conveniently dropped off and picked up again at the ticket booths.

borobudur的雄伟金字塔结构周围没有阴影，爬上巨大的石块制成的许多步骤会使您非常口渴。因此，必须带足够的水和早点到达！此外，可以通过遵循此建议来避免我看到当天晚些时候到达公交车的人群。配备了早餐套餐，您可以在这些令人印象深刻的景点上观看日出：野牛与绿色的山丘和山谷的风景，以及在村庄和稻田中普通的普兰巴南寺庙。

Batik

蜡染在日益卡塔中存放了盛大的！为了观看蜡染过程，我去了JL的Winotosastro工厂。Tirtodipuran，在那里我可以看到如何用倾斜工具手工绘制蜡线，然后用铜邮票将其压在织物上。然后将织物浸入几个热色浴中，然后脱下蜡。我还了解了不同的传统蜡染图案，其中一些仅在过去为王室保留，直到今天，卡拉顿内部的平民从未穿过。

Winotosastro工厂的蜡染过程。

Although watching the batik workers in action was fascinating, I felt a bit pressured afterwards to buy in the showroom. Instead, I explored the extensive batik section in the Beringharjo market instead, and finally ended up at the famous Mirota Batik Store just outside the market—owned by a well-known local artist/TV character Raminten. There, I found a dazzling array of both high quality and cheap printing batiks at fixed prices.

Food

Yogyakarta offers tantalizing food experiences for lovers of Indonesian food, whether you eat in a simple沃伦(Makan Bawon), in a more upscale bistro (Kesuma), or at one of the many food hawkers’ stalls.

Although the homemade meals at "Alamanda," and my daily portions from the travelingsatay每天晚上都会通过B＆B的供应商已经难以抗拒，当地人一直坚持我的日子经历不会完整gudeg, an authentic Yogya specialty. So on my last day in Yogya, I headed with some new friends for the highly recommended Gudeg Yu Djum restaurant on Jl. Kaliurang and ordered the famed dish. Made from young jackfruit and cooked for hours on end with brown sugar, coconut milk, and lots of spices, the dish came with spicyKrecek(cow skin), egg, chicken, and tempeh,and turned out to be sweet, tasty, and definitely worth the try.

It was only when we raised a glass on my pending farewell that I realized that solo travel had never been easier than in vibrant and hospitable Yogyakarta.

在Ouwerkerkis originally from Amsterdam, The Netherlands, and currently lives in Montreal, Canada. Previously a columnist for The Sherbrooke Record, she is presently a freelance writer and photographer for various travel magazines.